A garden island just offshore, Gulangyu, bans cars entirely and instead offers colonial-era mansions, hidden courtyards and more pianos per capita than anywhere else in China, a legacy of the missionaries and merchants who settled here a century ago. Xiamen's own waterfront promenade and university campus, regularly named the country's most beautiful, back onto beaches busy with egrets and terns. A seafood-heavy Hokkien dining scene, built on the same strait that has linked this coast to Taiwan and beyond for centuries, rounds out one of China's most livable port cities.