Fiji's lively capital wears its history in colonial verandahs, Indo-Fijian curry houses and the superb Fiji Museum, keeper of the Bounty's rudder and relics of the cannibal era. Take part in a welcoming sevusevu kava ceremony, browse the teeming municipal market heaped with chilies and yaqona root, then escape to the rainforest pools and birdsong of Colo-i-Suva. This is the human, cultural heart of your Pacific crossing, warmly and vividly alive.