Vava'u is one of a mere handful of places on earth where you may lawfully swim alongside humpback whales, hovering beside a mother and her calf in warm blue water, an encounter that leaves grown travelers in tears. Between swims, thread the maze of forty-odd islands, snorkel into Swallows' Cave and dive the hidden air pocket of Mariner's Cave. Carrying her own tenders, SeaDream III slips through channels the big ships simply cannot enter.